Sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) is an important surfactant ingredient in mild, syndet (synthetic detergent) cleansing bars. In vitro and in vivo studies have demonstrated that SCI is mild and less damaging to the skin barrier than soaps and surfactants such as sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS). Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) is an extremely gentle surfactant and emulsifier, and is used in a variety of cosmetics, personal care.
Description
Mild, high foaming anionic surfactant with high purity made from coconut fatty acids.
It acts as a foaming and cleansing agent. Commonly used in made from scratch shampoos, shower gels and more! Sulfate-free and biodegradable.
INCI
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Active Surfactant Matter
High active 85% purity
Appearance
White noodles
Usage rate
Mix with other surfactants (anionic or nonionic) at a concentration of 3-20%. Melt SCI noodles in Bubble Up or Cocamidopropyl Betaine before mixing into water phase.
Applications
Shampoos, detergent bars, bubble bath, facial cleansers, baby products.
Scent
Characteristically soapy/detergent
pH
5.0– 7.0 (10% Solution)
Charge
Anionic
Solubility
Water
Why do we use it in formulations?
It offers beautiful, gentle “lace glove” lather to our products. It’s also naturally acidic, so it helps our end products have a skin-friendly pH with less (or no) adjusting.
Strengths
Wonderful, gentle lather.
Weaknesses
The larger shapes can be a pain to melt down.
How to Work with It
Wear a dust mask! Inhaling airborne powdered surfactants is unbelievably unpleasant.
If you’re making a solid product you can usually work with the SCI as-is, depending on the format.
If you would like to make powder (the formulation calls for the powdered version) you’ll want to pre-grind it (wear your dust mask!), but the little noodles look really cool in shampoo bars as-is, and the fine powder is very flexible!
If you are making a liquid product with Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI), it will need to be dissolved in a suitable solvent first. Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) does not dissolve readily into water. It will need water bath until you have a uniform paste. That paste will dissolve into water.
Benefits
Excellent foam density and foam stability
Has very good lime soap dispersion and surface activity
Leaves no soap scum as it is very hard water tolerant
Compatible with soaps and anionic, non-ionic, and amphoteric surfactant
Excellent lathering; exceptionally mild, provides soft skin after-feel
Note: If the formulation calls for the powdered version you need to pre-grind it (wear your dust mask!), but the little noodles look really good in shampoo bars as-is, and the fine powder is very flexible!
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